The Beatles in Rishikesh - Me Too

In 1968 the Beatles came to Rishikesh in India to live inWhat fun did they have! It was Ringo Starr, who called
an ashram, learn meditation and get enlightened bytheir ashram a Butlins Holiday Camp.
their guru Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, the "giggling guru". HeNowadays Rishikesh is known as the yoga capital of
was the inventor of a Meditation technique, which wasthe world. The yogi and his Beatles certainly helped in
and is incredibly popular with Westerners. Maharishibringing this city, which was once only a small village in
was also an excellent business-man and when he diedthe foothills of the Himalayas, to the attention of the
in 2008, he left billions of dollars and millions of followersWestern World. For Hindus, however, Rishikesh has
behind. He was criticised by many, including the Beatlesalways been a place of the highest religious
themselves and his fellow gurus for being too focusedimportance. According to legend, Lord Rama came
on money and for not sharing his wisdom purely forhere to do penance for killing Ravana, a demon king
the sake of doing good.and his younger brother Lakshmana is said to have
The Beatles were smitten by this man who taughtcrossed the river Ganges at exactly the point where
them meditation at a time when their lives were hectic,the famous 'Lakshman Jhula' bridge stands today.
somewhat crazy and the drugs had started to be aHindus still come to Rishikesh for worship, but the
problem for them. Maharishi promised world peace andmajority of visitors now are Westerners looking for
yogic flying through his meditation technique. As weenlightenment, a yoga holiday or just to have a look at
know, neither has been achieved so far, yet thewhat it's all about.
Beatles were ready, even desperate to believe him.When I came to Rishikesh, I was deeply disappointed. I
Mind you, it seems the Beatles had a thing for believingblame the guide books, which made it sound as if
the unbelievable. There was this guy they called Magicthere was peacefulness to be found, a calm
Alex, the "Greek Wizard". The Beatles believed him toenvironment that is conducive to meditation, the sound
deliver the most incredible futuristic inventions. It wouldof chimes echoing through the valley at sunset. I
appear that this Alex guy had promised them a newbelieve that this is what it once was, a quiet little village
type of paint that could make anything invisible, or aby the river, with monks and spiritualists wandering the
car that would change colour when you flicked anarrow streets in search of true happiness and
switch. He was also working on some wallpaperenlightenment. I wonder if it was like that when the
speakers, which would actually be a part of theBeatles were there. It certainly is not like that now.
wallpaper. The Beatles loved it and told him manyThe modern-day town of Rishikesh is a big, bustling,
times "if you could do that, we'd like one". Theynoisy and pretty dirty city that spreads out over
invested a great deal of money in Magic Alex andseveral miles. After forty years of international tourism,
even commissioned him to create an "artificial sun"there are now masses of guest-houses, hotels, yoga
which would light up the night-time sky. When the timecenters and ashrams. Money has been made and
came for Alex to produce his artificial sun, he claimedreinvested in building more guest houses, ashrams,
that there was not a strong enough energy supply totacky shops and mainstream restaurants. They still
power it. Never mind.don't serve any alcohol within the radius of 25
When it comes to the yogi though, the Beatles werekilometers, as I was told, but apart from that, there is
not the only ones to believe. He had many famousnothing that you can't get over here. It is impossible to
people amongst his millions of followers. Mick Jagger,get away from the deafening sound of motor-bikes
Marianne Faithfull, the Beach Boys and even Vidalbeeping their horns constantly and without any obvious
Sassoon are said to have studied with the Maharishi.reason, intermingled with the engine sound of large
Some of them met their guru outside of India, but thetrucks going up and down the hills to deliver building
Beatles went for the all-inclusive enlightenment tour tomaterials for yet more guest houses, ashrams... you
the holy "Valley of the Saints" in Rishikesh, whereknow, the lot.
Maharishi's ashram was situated.Meditation and Rishikesh now seems a strange
I have been to Rishikesh in India myself, and I did staycombination, as it is impossible to find a quiet spot in
in an ashram. I only lasted for a day though. Thethis bustling metropolis. I did not find peace, or
rooms were bare, which I could deal with. Yet theenlightenment, or even just a decent yoga class. On
atmosphere felt more like that of a prison than a placeday two I left the town in a hurry. Much similar to the
of spirituality. Silence was imposed for most of the dayBeatles, who stayed a little longer but all left before
and even during the speaking hours, people would onlytheir scheduled departure dates. Ringo and Paul left
whisper. No one ever laughed or made a joke. Thereafter two weeks because they didn't like food - I don't
was an air of repression everywhere around. Mealblame them. Harrison and Lennon stayed a bit longer
times and curfew were strict and ridiculously early.and had a good time, but after a few weeks they had
Who wants to eat dinner at 6pm and be locked up ina major falling out with the Maharishi.
their cells by nine? Smoking was of course prohibited,By now, the Maharishi's business sense was perceived
so was alcohol and meat. Food consisted mainly ofas greed and calculation. John in particular started to
light-coloured dhal with dark-coloured dhal and wascriticise the Maharishi's money and fame orientated
served on a large metal tray. After each meal, I wasbehaviour. When on top of that the rumour spread that
required to rinse the tray and take it back to mythe supposedly celibate guru had tried it on with the
bedroom. At five thirty in the morning, a bell would ringladies of the group, the last remaining Beatles turned
and the prisoners, sorry spiritualists, came out of theirtheir back on Rishikesh, the ashram and the yogi. The
rooms rubbing their sleepy eyes whilst carrying theirMaharishi later claimed that it had been his wish to see
metal trays to the kitchen for another fill of dhal.the group go because he had caught them using
The Beatles had it much better than that. Althoughdrugs, which was against the ashram's rules.
ashrams are meant to be simple - you could call it1968 went down in history as the Beatles' Indian
primitive - the one that the Beatles visited was of aSummer. They had been looking for something to
different standard. Theirs was designed withstabilize them, to help them come off LSD and to
Westerners in mind - rich Westerners. It wasreignite their creativity. Indeed the period in Rishikesh
described as luxurious, but also as seedy. Even in 1968,was one of the Beatles' most creative and in just a
their rooms had electric heaters, running water, toilets,few weeks, they composed nearly 48 songs, many of
and European-style furniture. Their meals were cookedwhich appeared on their White Album. John Lennon
by an English chef. They even had an Indian tailor ongot his revenge by creating a song, with the accusing,
the premises. He was responsible for creating thoseangry lyrics "What have you done? You made a fool
Indian-inspired multi-colored spangly outfits that theof everyone." He called the song Maharishi, but later
Beatles, and everyone else after them, wore fromchanged the title.
then on. The routine at their ashram was relaxed andI was glad to have come to such an important place in
they spent most of their time playing and composingreligion and modern history. Frankly though: Rishikesh,
music, that is when they were not attending groupIndia did not do it for me.
meditation meetings and private lessons with their guru.